Knitting Today: HAT, CAT, or Somewhere Inbetween.

Occassionally on lists for designers, a discussion regarding Hip and Trendy (HAT, or H&T as it is also called) crops up. There are a number of designers, including myself, who dislike the term as it usually is used in combination with something like “Not Your Grandma’s Knitting!”…as is, our knitting is good, yours is not relevant.

I suppose that is human nature to some extent. I am wondering, though, how much of that is due to the influx of younger knitters (as another designer wisely pointed out there seems to be a cycle with many things when “young” or newer enthusiasts join something, and everything is new to them). We are at a point (or rather, they are at a point) where they are ready to move beyond garter stitch scarves in novelty yarn, and the desire for things that are fashionable and fresh drive marketing. The search for what is “new” and “relevant”, can be somewhat misleading. Old techniques are discovered and used in new ways when minds are open, rather than closed. Don’t get me wrong, everyone should be able to choose for themselves how simple they want their knitting to be. It is their knitting and they should be allowed to enjoy it without comment from anyone. But it works both ways. Human nature being what it is, we don’t always embrace diversity as we should.

There is a whole world of knitting out there, and we are only limited by our imagination and belief in ourselves. The desire to learn more and do more can be severely hammpered by our beleif in ourselves. Many knitters have started to search out other things in knitting beyond the garter stitch scarf in novelty yarn, and there is a return to more classic types of knitting. For the fashion conscious, this classic style is not without it’s own modern feel.

I for one am rejoicing, as I am a CAT (classic and timeless) type of designer. There is more interest in other types of knitting as a result of this swing back to basic yarns and classic styles, and there isless dependence on novelty yarns to make a project special.

I have a hard time designing with the novelty yarns myself. I think they are pretty, but I have trouble doing them justice. I think because I just never learned how to combine them or use them. This is because the kind of knitting that shows these yarns off bores me silly. In all honesty, I prefer classic yarns and classic types of knitting. The knitting itself is more challenging and is the star of the show, rather than the yarn itself being the one and only design element.

I enjoy an Aran jumper (pullover) or a fairisle jumper much more than a sweater that is knit out of novelty yarns. I can appreciate them, I just don’t use them myself.

It has been postulated that designers tend to fill niches, and I suppose in many respects that is right. I have not seen any effect in my own business related to the knitting industry (many are wondering if the bubble has burst, as there are now yarn stores closing and for awhile there, it seemed there were a lot of new ones opening). I would venture to say that is because the designs that I do never appealed to the knitters the market was courting. At the TNNA (The National Needlework Association) trade show, the market was definetly more balanced and not so heavily slated towards novelty yarns last year, and I would imagine this year will be the same.

I have always, to some extent, designed what I want and let the chips fall where they may. I think in many areas of life that is a good approach. Do what you believe is right, essentially. Or do what you believe in. I believe in designing garments I would love to wear. When it gets to the point where I am designing something to make a quick sale, that is not what I am into. Some people are and there is nothing wrong with that either. But if it isn’t right for me, then I should not pursue it.

Whatever my niche is, I am not entirely sure as I have not stopped to analyze it. I suppose I should. Janet Szabo is the queen of Aran knitting. Annie Modesitt is brilliantly creative. Bonne Marie Burns epitomizes elegant and trendy (IMHO). I just do what I like and see where it takes my fancy. And I try not to be afraid.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Knitting in the Blogosphere

It is fun to visit blogs that have linked to mine, and see projects knitters are doing and what changes they have made to make the project their own. Yarns used or changes made in edgings, shaping, or other details. Sometimes, I will google a design to see what people are doing. I have come across some very interesting blogs that way.

I found Weedwacker Knits on just such a foray into the blogoshpere. It is an entertaining blog. She is a knitter, spinner, and gardener (grows her own dyestuffs and collects organic materials such as lichen on trees and walnuts on the ground that the squirrels have not yet gotten to). Scroll down to October 14, 2007 and read about the spin-in. She mentions Brambleberry, knit by Barb in her group. A prolific knitter and spinner who had a number of projects for the show and tell which were beautifully knit. Here is the url: http://weedwackerknits.blogspot.com/2007_10_01_archive.html . She is an avid sock knitter, by the way. I had to laugh when I read a recent post talking about her stash.

In Jennifer’s Journal, she linked to my blog and I read about the LaMancha Watchcap that she knit. It was published in the Knitting Pattern a Day Calendar 2007. I didn’t put anything in the calender this year, as I just did not have time, but it is nice to know it is still being used. She is starting her first sweater…from the top down. She has a number of nice looking socks on her blog also, and I imagine her sweater will turn out just as nicely as the socks did. Since I cannot get the hyperlink button to work at the moment, here is the url: http://initsox2.blogspot.com/2008/05/and-knit-goes-on.html

From the Wool Room is an interesting blog from handknitter and spinner Loribird, who also has an etsy shop. She knit Wine and Roses, the lace fingerless mitts that were in the Winter issue of Interweave Knits a year ago this past winter. Winter 2006, I believe. She spun the yarn her mitts were made in. Here is the url: http://www.fromthewoolroom.com/2008/01/wine-and-silk-roses.html

To all of you out there, I hope you have a splendid weekend.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

How Do You Color Your World?

On one of the forums in Ravelry, there was an interesting discussion on color versus black and white photography for simple patterns for a beginning knitter’s class. As this is a topic on a forum for designers, it was interesting how the topic went in different directions.

From a marketing standpoint, at least in knitting and other crafty hobbies, color photography is seen as a higher quality. Interestingly, you are not always able to see the best detail with color photography. In the case of the thread that started the topic, they are simple patterns with (I have heard although have not seen) a very good quality black and white. One of the reasons they are given in black and white is to keep costs down for the beginner students so they don’t have to shell out so much.

Another interesting observation on the topic was how black and white photography (art photography) has value. Think Ansel Adams. Of course, we live in an instant gratification, more is more, huge is more, all the bells and whistles is more society. We do judge a book by its’ cover…or rather, color. Photography, that is. One thing that surely makes or breaks a pattern in that very small amount of time a consumer spends looking at things before picking it up and looking further. If the photography is not eye catching and well done, chances are the pattern will not be looked at.

For myself, I honestly cannot enjoy a sense of intimacy with a black and white art photo. I can appreciate it’s beauty, but I don’t want to live with it. It feels sterile and devoid of passion. Color greatly affects feeling, emotion, sense of well being. Color can make you feel energetic or languid. Color communicates, and we internalize what is communicated.

I am sure you all have seen some tone on tone rooms done in beige or off white. I know they can look sophisticated, but again it tends to not be my thing. Right now I am picking out carpeting and paint colors for my studio. I already have a sofa going into it that I am pulling colors from the upholstery, but deciding on a final color scheme has been somewhat tricky. I don’t want my studio of all places to be devoid of color, and so neutral it has a neutered feel.

The upholstery is a wonderful tapestry with ducks swimming in water, grasses and cattails, leafy trees, and some ducks flying. The ducks are mallards. There is an amazing variety of colors in this tapestry. The problem is if I have too much color on the walls and floor, the tapestry will not be a focal point. If I go with too neutral of a scheme, there won’t be enough punch in the room to look like anything but the home of someone who cannot commit, someone who doesn’t know color, or someone who enjoys an “artsy” or “sophisticated” no color kind of palette. I am none of those. I was on the Dean’s list when studying metal smithing, but I can say without hesitation that there are things about the world of fine art that are needlessly high brow.

I enjoy color. In my home, I want a peaceful environment while feeling energized. I want a welcoming environment, so I want it to feel warm. I also want it to feel like a creative space. I want it to feel like it has personality.

In the end, for the carpet, I picked out a light colored neutral for the carpet. The walls will be a yellow green (a color that is in abundance in the tapestry upholstery, as is the light colored neutral). The upholstery also has some mauve, royal blue, blue green, yellow, orange,rust, and other colors. I plan on picking up some of the mauve and purple colors in accents. This ended up being a good compromise between not enough color and too much color. There is enough of a chic feel with the yellow green on the walls to fill the artistic and creative needs (I thought some orchids would be a nice touch in that room too). There isn’t such a huge wow between the carpet and walls that nothing else gets noticed either. In designing the room, I had to decide what was going to be most important and make choices based on that. Not everything can be the “subject”. In design, some things have to more important, and other things have to recede and play a supportive role.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Here we go for Round Two: More Knitting Needed

Let me just say off the bat that this post today is just a wee bit whiny. Plain and simple, I am tired and I miss my husband. One of the bad things about him being gone is that I cannot show him the swatch that I just did and tell him what I want to do with it. We have been together long enough that he smiles and says “What does it want to be?”. Part of the fun of designing for me is showing him what I am coming up with.

Right now I am working on some baby projects going into an Interweave Press book. And that is fun, but it is more fun when I have someone to share it with. Don’t get me wrong, I get to see him on average twice a month so it could be worse. And I get to talk to him several times a day.

I actually was able to show him the swatch for the baby sweaters when it was done, as I was working on that when I went and visited him a few weeks ago. The baby sweaters have a little Intarsia on the chest, and a simple all over texture. Nice little details at the bands, too. I won’t go into more detail but when the book is out I will scan the swatch or post a picture of the sweaters (and the baby blanket).

I know there are many knitters out there who are knitting in a vacuum, and the Internet has been a boon for that. But there is nothing like getting together with other knitters (or someone who enjoys what you do) and spend some time together. I find it calms my mind. I had to go to the dentist today for some fillings, and took my knitting with me. I did actually get some knitting done, too, while I was there. I was actually pretty embarrassed that I had a few cavities. I haven’t had any in years, and I think I was just so sickly and feeling crummy over the past couple years that I didn’t brush as long. I had had bronchitis and pneumonia, and frequent chest colds after the accident I was in. My asthma kicks up and I wake up coughing. I relied on cough drops to go back to sleep, and often would put one in my mouth, between my cheek and teeth. I had three cavities on the side that I did that. I am going to make sure, when in similar situations, to make sure the cough drops are sugar free from now on.

I also knit during the sermon at church. I listen better with mindless knitting in hand.

While I have not posted pictures of the remodeling our house has gone through (which I hope to soon, as I have some really great pictures), I have been planning phase two, in between knitting for books and trying to get something new done for my own line of pattern leaflets. I am finally getting my studio done. Our current garage is getting converted to living space, and will be my studio. I will have a fireplace in the corner, and french doors on the front and back. I have so much yarn literally all over the house. The only room the house does not have yarn in (in some manner) is the bathrooms and laundry room.

There is a lot of planning involved. Just today, I have been looking at carpet samples and paint samples and making final choices.

And now I am ready to sit and knit. It is 5:30, and I am going to sit and work on the baby blanket for the Interweave book. It is repetitive, and a perfect antidote to an overloaded day.

I often wonder if knitting would not contribute greatly to stress reduction programs.  I think that is what we all need, more knitting.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Book Submissions: Interweave

I found out that I have two designs, a baby blanket and a baby sweater set, going into a book of knitting gifts that Interweave is doing.

The baby blanket was designed with my grandaughter Jessica in mind, and the sweater set was designed with my grandson Ian in mind, although both have in mind that sometimes we don’t know the gender of the baby we are knitting for.

I will let you know the names of the designs when the names are finalized.

Kazumi will be in Simple Style, and when the book comes out I will let you know.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Knitterlogue: I have Googled, and Now it Is

Travelogue: a travel documentary, a diary written during a journey, or a work of literature describing a journey.

Knitterlogue: a knitting documentary, in my case a knitting documentary of the design process, a diary of the design process. The story behind the knitting.

Yes, I did Google Knitterlogue, but nothing came up.

I don’t believe many of you know about a book project I have had on the back burners for some time. The idea is to have a book of designs that are inspired by animals at the zoo. None of the knitting looks like a particular animal in a representative way, rather the knitting has classic and yet up to date projects that have elements chosen as an abstraction of the inspiration. An Orangutan inspired design for example will not be the color of an Orangutan or have an Orangutan face on it. Rather, design elements are chosen for what I want to communicate about that animal. What stuck out in my mind, be it color, line of body, habit or habitat. Or what sparked in my imagination from thinking about the animal in question.

Traditional or classic types of techniques can still yield some very artful abstractions, without obviously being abstract art. For those of us who like designs that lean towards the classic (think Interweave Knits), that can be quite a revelation.

To be honest, there is a lot of abstract art that I don’t like because I don’t know how to relate to  it.  I don’t speak it’s language. I guess that is one of the reasons why I put the story out there. For those who want to design, reading about the process and the choices helps them think of their own choices and methods of expression.  All of my designs tell a story. I try and put that in each of the patterns, so the knitter has a sense of what my vision is and why I chose the things that I did to support the design. I think it makes for interesting reading, and when you are wearing it, it is like having a special little secret you are privy to that not everyone else knows.

I have showed that collection of swatches to a number of individuals in the business, and have been encouraged to pursue finding a publisher.  I did submit it to one publisher, but  it did not fit with what they felt their vision was at the time (and, my submission was inadvertantly returned to another designer, fortunately someone I knew who has scruples and would not “borrow” any of my designs…probably why I have been loathe to do anything with it since).

After having my work in Handknit Holidays, I was fortunate enough to talk with Melanie Falick at TNNA last summer (The National Needlearts Association trade show in Columbus OH). I talked with her about my ideas and she told me when I had it fleshed out more to let her know. I really need to get it in gear and talk to her about it. I don’t know whether or not it is a project she would want to take on or not, but it is one I love the idea of.

There are changes now in the market which lead me to think maybe the time is better now for this book, as there is a return to the types of designs that I like to do. And, there are now books that have that creative process as part of the book. Breaking into new territory or niche knitting in a successful book is not easy if you are not one of the better known designers.

Two books that caught my eye that are new include fine gauge knitting (Knit So Fine ), and design (Inspired to Knit). I was quite happy to see both publications, as I love talking about art, inspiration, and the design process, and I love fine gauge knitting. One of my distributors did not know I love fine gauge knitting, as so many of my designs are in worsted weight. What she did not know was that was because it suit the market.

I have all you sock knitters out there to thank for the wonderful array of fine gauge yarns that are coming out right now, as sock knitting is very popular. I personally don’t knit anything heavier than worsted weight. It just isn’t me.

Anyway, when I finally do a book, it will have a story as well. A story of many little stories, each one about the design process of something which sparked my imagination.

I dream about it, and it is a journey. They are all journeys, in their own way. With each design I pick different things to express what it is that has fired my imagination. But that is only the beginning of the story, or the start of the journey. I only deal with the first chapter, and it is up to each knitter to to take up the story in their own way.Peach and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Free Knitting Patterns: To Blog or Not to Blog

I had a somewhat lengthy reply to a question from Ginger, regarding posting a link to a free blog. I did answer her question via email as well as beneath her comment on my blog, but I thought free knitting patterns related to copyrights might make an interesting topic.

Copyright itself can be difficult to understand. I was told at one time that you might think of it as a bundle of sticks, each stick would represent a “right”. There are any number of rights involved. First North American Serial Rights are typically the first publication of something in a North American magazine.

Over the years, publishers have expanded what they want beyond First North American Serial Rights to include the right to put something in an Anthology, the right to store it digitally, the right to distribute it digitally or in a collection, and on and on. I might add that compensation for the use of a design has not increased to cover the additional rights the publishers want.

It isn’t that I think the publishers of knitting magazines are being unfair per se, as I don’t know what expenses they have…I only know what mine are. I also know that they have to remain competitive in the publishing world or they go out of business.

The market has changed over the years. With the advent of the internet and what consumers expect, that bundle of sticks has grown. Both in the number of sticks in that bundle, and the number of sticks that publishers want when they pay a designer for the right to publish their work.

Publishers don’t want to be left in the dark in the advent of new and as yet undiscovered technologies, which can ultimately leave them behind in consumer expectations.

For example, there are now magazines that offer free downloads of some patterns. This would not be possible if the publishers had not secured digital rights to these patterns, or the right to distribute these patterns. They had to think ahead in terms of technology to have in place the means to satisfy the demands of the consumer, who can now cruise the internet and have immediate digital access to many many things. And it had to be in a way that was not too specific so that new technologies were not excluded!

There are designers who are not keen to see their patterns that were published in a magazine then offered as a free download. They don’t typically get compensated for that, although it depends on the legal wording on the contract. Contracts are often vaguely worded as it gives more wiggle room in the advent of - you guessed it - new technologies. It isn’t that publishers set out to stiff anyone. They too have a budget and they also need to meet the expectations of their consumers.

That said, how does this apply to the average knitter/blogger who likes to share free patterns? Some argue that since the pattern is free it is meant to be shared freely. While there is some truth to that, unless the pattern states clearly on it that anyone may distribute the pattern freely (as long as the pattern remains in its original state with the name of the designer clearly on the pattern) that may be one of those sticks in that copyright bundle that the designer has not given up. The right to distribute the work ultimately belongs to the creator of that work, and then it may or may not be sold or given away.

There are people out there who do patterns just because they love to do patterns and share them. When you are looking at the work of a professional designer, that free pattern represents many things. To the consumer it is a free pattern and the consumer is happy because they don’t have to pay for it. To the designer, it is something they put work into for a purpose. The purpose may be to draw traffic to their site, and to give their target consumer a chance to see what their product is like. It is a marketing tool.

In the end there is nothing wrong with that, nor is there anything wrong with not giving permission to distribute the pattern freely. It the designer put work into a design expressly to draw traffic to their site and to give a taste of what their product is like, it is their right to distribute it as they see fit.

Unfortunately, statistically, those in search of free patterns are not necessarily the ones who click through and buy…especially the ones who get the free patterns from websites that have collections of free patterns. The only way the designer benefits off of their work is if someone purchases a pattern or the design if it is work going to a publisher. Warm fuzzy feelings don’t pay the bills, and there are costs associated with designing.

So, lets say there is a free pattern you love and you would like to be able to put it on your site. One thing you can always do without permission is post a link to the pattern directly on the site from the designer. You can make the link open in a new window so that folks still have a foot in your door, so to speak.

Look at the pattern. What kind of information is there on the pattern besides the name of the designer? If there isn’t anything, you need to write and ask permission to post it on your blog. I would state upfront that the pattern will remain unaltered and with the name and copyright information of the designer on the pattern. Offer to link back to the web site or blog of the designer as well.

When you receive permission to post it on your blog, state clearly at the beginning (the end would not hurt either) the name and copyright of the design, as well as the name of the designer and that permission was given (along with the date) to post the pattern on your blog.

Many people are delighted to have free patterns they have done appear on other blogs, but others want those free patterns to stay on their website, where they can see what kind of statistics they get and where they can use it as a direct marketing tool.

As long as you have permission, you are good to go with a free pattern. You can link to your heart’s content without permission, as you are not distributing with a link.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace, PR Chair The Association of Knitwear Designers, Inc.

Where Have You Been: Hello, Flinke Nadel - Stricktagebuch

It is really fascinating how the earth is “smaller” with today’s technology. As many of you know from time to time I like to post blogs that have a link to mine, and here is one from perhaps Germany or somewhere similar. I cannot tell where the country of origin is and the language looks like German.

At any rate, one thing that is nice about Flinke Nadel - Stricktagebuch is the option to view it in English or Duetsch. A very nice touch for those who are not in Germany or a German speaking country.

As far as a physical presence, I have been at home a lot lately. With my husband being at Fort Knox, there is more to do around the house and our remodel job is underway. I now have a toilet and washer in my kitchen/dining area, and the only public bathroom is now gutted.

I have been taking pictures along the way and later I will post some. The guys have been great, but it is somewhat of a distraction. It is hard to do design work in the middle of, when it is both noisy and fascinating. Having a curious mind, it has been fun to watch.

I have a new design going into the next Interweave book in the “Simple” Series, and I need to write up the pattern and get it off to my test knitter.

Oh, yes. It is not quite 8am. I am not used to getting up early every day…but it does help me catch up with things before I hit the design work.

I hope you all have a great day.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

Free Knitting Patterns: What Does Free Really Mean?

Okay I know this might appear on the surface to be somewhat obvious, but I have my reasons to bring it up. I talked about Ravelry not too long ago, and it is proving to be a fabulous community for those who like to knit (and crochet).

One of the things I mentioned was having to take with a grain of salt what you might read in reviews, however. One person was having all kinds of problems with one of my patterns for example. At the end of her talking of all her woes she ‘fessed up that she had drastically altered the pattern. At least she mentioned it.

Today on one of my knitting lists for designers that I belong to, there is some discussion regarding Ravelry and the free patterns that abound…as well as the shopping cart that is to come. I have nothing against free patterns, there are many on both sides of that coin. Knitters who won’t knit a pattern they have to purchase (some don’t have the money and others won’t spend the money on a pattern “why would I pay for a pattern when I can get one for free?”, knitters who won’t knit from a free pattern, knitters who knit from both. Designers who feel they are good marketing tools, designers who don’t, and everyone in between.

One of the designers had a free pattern on her website (free for charity use). She was contacted recently by a knitter who told the designer that she had put the design on her blog (without permission from the copyright holder). This might not seem logical, but the pattern being free to use does not mean it is free to distribute unless it says so. I don’t know what kind ruckus ensued, but I gathered from the post that it was not pretty.

You know, I don’t know that any of that will change either. There will always be those who don’t understand what a free pattern entails. I would hope that at some point that in this day and age when we expect diversity and tolerance that we start to practice what we preach. I don’t know the situation with this particular designer, but I do believe that when a designer feels that their copyright has been violated, that a neutral contact requesting the violation cease is appropriate. Charges of stealing at that point are not. There are just as many who don’t understand, as there are who do.

I know there are people who frankly don’t care if they take advantage, but you do have to give the benefit of the doubt. that benefit of the doubt needs to work both ways though. Instead of being offended that someone is defending their work, a little understanding on the part of the knitter is a good thing too.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

It’s a Raverly World: Knitting on the Internet

As a designer I received information about Ravelry at the start. At the time, I was too strapped to look into it. As the months went on, more and more designers joined up and there was more and more buzz amongst designers regarding the community there.

There will always be knitters who are not online, or who avoid computers, or only go online to read their email. There will also be those intrepid souls who boldly go where others fear to tread. Fear of the unknown can stymie many a good knitter.

At any rate, I joined up and have been there for a while now. I post now and then, where I can, and enjoy the time I spend there. I have met some very fun and unique people too, too. One thing I need to do yet is get all of my designs on Ravelry. I havn’t managed to do that yet.

For those interested in designing, or becoming a professional designer, there are many good topics at hand. Self-Marketing is a good thing when you are in a personality driven business, and make no mistake this business has that component. However, the savvy business person understands that Self-Promotion is more an end product, rather than the product.

In today’s market consumers are looking at information, what they need when they need it. Consumers don’t want a sales pitch. They want truly useful information. What this means for designers and local yarn stores and others in the business, is to put yourself in the shoes of your customer. Instead of having a bland web site with your special of the day, have information they can use. For example, online references of techniques, or how to do different cast ons. You get the idea.

One thing I try and do on my blog when I have a new design is talk about the process behind it. I try and keep it brief because I don’t want to bore anyone, but I also want to inform. There is little information on how to design, and many who are interested in learning how are not interested in the art principles involved. I have talked about this before, and I think it is because the art principles involved are not presented in meaningful ways to them.

There are a myriad of wonderful knitting sites out there, and truth be told you all are probably more aware of them than I am. A little Google search (or your favorite search engine) can yield a gold mine of knitting content.

Which brings me back to Ravelry. It is a wonderful community, and has managed to bring together many diverse elements. I know there is some concern at times by designers that you can have a knitter who for whatever reason has problems bash a pattern, when it is not error in the pattern that is the source of the trouble. This can happen when the pattern is beyond the skill of the knitter, or perhaps they are not familiar with the language of patterns.  As always, you have to read and make your own decisions.

In the end, I think it is how we are in the community around us which will have the biggest impact, not only in how the quality of our designs are viewed, but in the information we share as well. I have heard throughout my life comments regarding my creativity. “You are so creative!!!” and so on. While I enjoy the compliments, in the end it is not that creativity that I want to be admired for, but by the kind of person that I am…creativity being a gift I was born with. The kind of person that I am requires far more choice and diligence.

Who we are in the community is what it is all about, and it is what makes us feel connected. Within the world of knitting, online communities such as Raverly provide another way we can connect with each other.

Maybe I will see you over there. If you see my picture, by the way, I will fess up that it is about 20 years old. I don’t have very many pictures of myself because I am usually behind the camera, and I like that one.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace