JoLene Treace Unraveled

July 1, 2008

Tea Timing Knitters: It’s a Cozy World

Filed under: Musings — jolenetreace @ 5:13 pm

I belong to the Association of Knitwear Designers. One of our members, designer Dawn Brocco, has some really great patterns for tea cozies on her site. I love tea. I never used to be much of a tea drinker, but my sister bought a beautiful teapot and some teas for me for my birthday one year, and I have been hooked ever since. The tea came from Culinary Teas, in Syracuse. An hour drive from my house, one way. The only tea I drink now. It is some good stuff.

One of these days, I am going to design myself a tea cozy. My friend Beth Brown Reinsel is going to come spend the night before stitches, and it would be a lot of fun to have tea for her in my new sunroom/garden room, with some wonderfully artistic tea cozy for my pot.

I may have to make one of Dawn’s, as I don’t know that I will be designing one anytime soon. It might make a fun project though.

They really are worth taking a look at.

On the home front, a cup of tea might be a nice thing to enjoy tonight. Everyone is gone now - Erin, Andy and Ian (Sweetie, Waggs, and Cutie Pie) are all back in Dayton. They went home yesterday. My husband Ed was home for the weekend and went back about an hour ago.

Time to decompress, knit, and plan yarn for projects. I am having all of my sample garments redone and am in the process of choosing yarns. I am thinking either some Cream Earl Grey, or Apple Spice. Chai would be good too.

Today they got the stamped stained concrete porch done. I have no idea what is on the agenda for tomorrow. Hopefully the framing inspector will be out at some point.

My only “I want to get it done and soon” thought is it will be really nice to get yarn out of literally every room but the bathroom and kitchen, and get my studio organized.

That may be a tea drinking day too.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

June 30, 2008

Would You Like to Pet My Alpaca?

Filed under: Musings — jolenetreace @ 5:55 pm

Friday evening I went to Dayton Ohio, for the air show, concert, and fireworks at Wright Patterson Airforce Base. I saw Erin (Hi Sweetie!) and her husband Andy, my little grandson Ian (a cutie pie). I don’t remember exactly what day it was, Friday or Saturday, when we were talking about fiber animals. Andy as it turns out was trying to figure out what an Alpaca Rabbit looked like. Erin dutifully explained to him that an Alpaca is not a rabbit, and then playfully asked him “Would you like to pet my alpaca?” (of course I found this really too funny and was glad I wasn’t drinking anything at the time or I would have sprayed someone).

This became the joke for the weekend.

It of course can mean different things depending on how it is said, and it came to my mind today when catching up on some of the lists I belong to for designers.

I enjoy Ravelry, but I find it frustrating when groups of knitters (or anyone for that matter) just start bashing someone. In this situation, there was a knitter who lost their pattern, and expected the designer to replace the pattern. When they did not get that, they flamed the designer on Ravelry.

I don’t know about you, but if I walked into Barnes and Noble and said I lost my issue of Knitters, and that I expected them to replace it they would without a doubt be laughing, at least on the inside, while explaining that what I did with my purchase was my responsibility not theirs.

In the world of the needlearts, things are often a little warmer and fuzzier, and kind hearted independent designers, in the spirit of good customer service, often give in to unrealistic expectations for fear of angering the customer. In the scenario above, not only did this person want a new pattern, they wanted one with no receipt or record that could prove they had purchased one in the first place. When they did not get what they wanted, they smeared the designer on Ravelry. By the time the designer had a chance to respond, the damage to her name had been done in thousands of viewings.

We have a lot to be thankful for in this country. I think of this often, and not just near the fourth of July. If this is all we have to be upset about, that we in our own carelessness are expected to take responsibility for ourselves (particularly if there is nothing to prove a purchase had been made in the first place), life really isn’t all that bad.

This is where we can all make a huge difference in the world. We talk about world peace and we worry about current political events, but what are we doing in our own corner to set the bar? Do we set good examples even on the internet, or do we become mean and snarky because we feel like we can get away with it since we don’t see anyone face to face. Why is abusiveness thinly veiled in sharp wit something we let slide?

Our choices can make it a much happier place. I think we all need to pet some alpaca.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

June 24, 2008

My Studio Progress

Filed under: Musings — jolenetreace @ 10:40 pm

Right now things are pretty much at a standstill. We are awaiting the framing inspection, and then they can do the insulation and drywall. Soon (the end of the month, the first part of the next) they will be doing stamped stained concrete along the front of the house. Right now there is brick set in sand, of all things. The brick looks pretty cool, but it is a pain to have to pull weeds in what is supposed to be a porch.

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I have not put any pictures up in a long time here on the blog, and thought I would share some that I will be having framed for my studio. With pictures like this, who wouldn’t be inspired? I love nature.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

June 18, 2008

Copyright Issues: Pattern Sharing

Filed under: Musings, The Business of Designing — jolenetreace @ 8:16 pm

One of the things I love about needle art enthusiasts is their wonderful sharing nature. Unfortunately, in this day and age, there are ugly things that crop up like people wanting to get paid for the work that they do.

I can say that I have never had a copyright issue to my knowledge of my own patterns, but as a designer each time I see it crop up it makes me sick in the pit of my stomach. And there can be such acrimony on both sides. Designers who are tired of having to fight to have their work respected and not given away begin to get somewhat jaded. It ceases to become innocent sharing among friends, no harm meant, when people see their work scanned and posted on blogs for the world to have. Mass distribution, without the right to distribute.

For designers who have had to fight this battle it feels to them more deliberate and calculated. Let’s face it, there are those out there who are are cold, calculating, and don’t care who they rip off, even among needle art enthusiasts. Then the occasional individual who is truly innocent and doesn’t mean any harm can get into a real mess.

I have said it before and I’ll say it again: don’t put anything on your blogs that you did not make or create yourself. A scan of a pattern in a book is not something you made yourself. There is a lot of work and a lot of investment on the parts of a lot of people that goes into these publications. They deserve to be paid.

When you are offered a copy of a pattern, it would do my heart good to see needle art enthusiasts say “No, thanks, I want my own pattern. I want that designer to be able to keep putting out designs!”

Yes, that does happen. Many designers get very tired of this issue and ask themselves why they continue doing this.

Yikes.

I have been either fortunate or blissfully ignorant.

It isn’t that I don’t want to share with all of you, but here is the breakdown of my cost in a design: I have about 2 weeks of work in the pattern drafting, pattern writing, and graphics work (charts and schematics, photography and photo editing, pattern layout). I have around $200 in the test knitting, and about $150 in the tech editing. Now, you know I love you. But love just doesn’t demand that kind of price. It isn’t like we are married or nursed at the bosom of the same mother.

Guess how many pattern leaflets I have to sell to reach my break even point? Not including the cost of mailing yarn and garments back and forth or the cost of printing, or the cost of electricity and so on to power my computers and overhead of the office in my home? 750 patterns. For one design. As a designer, you know you have to have more than one pattern come out each year too. That is quite an investment. And as you might guess, it is a labor of love. Now if my designs were less complicated that amount would be less. There are designers who don’t factor in their time in working on the design as a cost of doing business, but that is a mistake. I don’t work for free, even for myself.

What is really unfortunate is that many independent designers, such as myself, should their copyright be infringed on, cannot afford legal expenses to defend their copyright. They have to weigh the cost of the loss of the design with the cost of an attorney’s fees.

Great independent designers exist because of the many knitters out there that want their own pattern, not one that is a photocopy given to them by a generous and well intentioned friend who doesn’t understand the economic impact to that designer.

My daily rant, I guess. Please feel free to distribute it. Let’s educate our sisters and brothers and keep designers able to produce more designs.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

June 10, 2008

I Saw the Harlot, but I didn’t tell the Deputy

Filed under: Musings, The Business of Designing — jolenetreace @ 8:51 pm

I will confess, the title is more catchy than the sighting. I went to TNNA to generally be in the booth of one of my distributors, Up North Fiber Art Supply, and to schmooze. That I saw the Harlot was anecdotal for my stepdaughter, Erin (Hi Sweetie!). She phoned me up and wanted to know if I had seen The Yarn Harlot. Erin is a fan, and devoted fans of the Harlot knew from her blog that she would be at TNNA. I caught sight of her at a book signing. The list of people waiting for her was immense.

If I could have taken a picture I would have, but they don’t allow cameras on the trade show floor.

Other sightings were friends from Stitches and Scones, in Indiana, Pat Kirtland of Kirtland’s Yarn Barn, and Knitting Today. There were others too, but my brain is still, well, feeling like I have had a lobotomy.

For those who wonder about the process of schmoozing, yarn acquisition as it relates to designing, and ethics related to such, some points are worth remembering.

1. This is a trade show meant to sell product to retailers, not court designers. What this means to the new designer is that we need to be conscious of customers coming into the booth we are visiting. This is the big show for vendor and retailer alike, and there are shop owners, reps, and others meeting up with representatives from companies, planning their product line often for the year. Schmooze discreetly and let them take care of their business.

2. If you are a hobby designer (which isn’t a bad thing or a slam), don’t solicit free yarn. Don’t get me wrong, many are very willing to give designers either yarn to swatch with or yarn at a discount. When approaching them, wait until they are free (unobtrusively), be upfront with who you are, where you are at, and simply ask what the process is for ordering yarn for designs. They will let you know what their policy is. If you DO accept yarn that they offer to give to you, you need to really try and do something with the yarn. I do not take yarn for swatching anymore without a specific purpose in mind. Remember, that yarn is ultimately not free. They cannot sell it if they gift it to you…and there are a lot of designers out there that may or may not be professional designers. Giving away yarn is an expense for yarn companies, an investment on their part that they hope yields a return.

3. Be friendly and courteous to people who come up to you and talk about your work. They have paid you the supreme compliment by sharing a hobby they love very much with you. Knitting your pattern takes time and effort, as well as an investment of money on their part. Don’t take them for granted, for without them you would have no one to design for.

I had a lot of fun at TNNA. I will be adding spring and summer garments to my line of pattern leaflets by next TNNA. I have a number of things I want to get done. I have as I mentioned before been pretty busy over the last several months with projects going in books. The last two books are with Interweave.

I will be doing some new patterns using SWTC as well as Naturally, and hope to also be doing some things with Rauma yarns, Claudia Handpaints, Interlacements Colorado, Black Water Abbey, and Dale of Norway. Hopefully the remodeling, the yard work, and everything in between allows enough time to get a good number of designs done by TNNA next June.

By the way, one of the funniest things I saw at the show was at the booth of Jade Sapphire. They had some cardboard cutouts of people, one of Elvis and one of romance cover model Fabio. The funny thing was about Fabio. There was a sign that said something like “Show Special”, or something like that. It was the placement that to me was absolutely hysterical and left me wondering if I was the only one with a dirty mind. Well, more accurately if I was the only one who noticed why it was so funny where it was placed in relation to what it said!

For those who love traditional knitting, as I do, it was good to see my friend Beth Brown-Reinsel on the floor again in a booth. Of course, I saw Lucy Neatby who is also carried by Up North Fiber Art Supply (they also carry Sivia Harding, Jeanne Abel, and Cat Bordhi). If any of you get to take a class with Lucy, it is well worth it. She is great fun and a good teacher.

On an unfortunate note, I was rear ended on my way home from Columbus. I had pulled off the highway to fill my tank and was waiting to turn left and then I was rear ended while sitting there. No real injuries, just some stiffness and burning. Alfred (the name of my Uplander) has a dent in the hatch, and the bumper is scratched up and gouged. The hitch for the camper is mangled too. My vehicle fared much better than the young lady who hit me. She was pretty shook up (her first accident), but the Deputy was very kind. I don’t remember the name of the county, which is a shame because I appreciated his kindness and professionalism.

On a happy note, I got to play Grandma for a couple days before the show. Andy was out of town for about a week, and I visited with Erin and Ian. Ian is growing so quickly and he is such a little cutie pie. He is fun to play with. That, in the end was my favorite part of the trip. The yarn was a very close second, however. There are some really neat yarns coming out.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

May 9, 2008

Knitting Today: HAT, CAT, or Somewhere Inbetween.

Filed under: Musings, The Business of Designing, The Design Process — jolenetreace @ 11:08 am

Occassionally on lists for designers, a discussion regarding Hip and Trendy (HAT, or H&T as it is also called) crops up. There are a number of designers, including myself, who dislike the term as it usually is used in combination with something like “Not Your Grandma’s Knitting!”…as is, our knitting is good, yours is not relevant.

I suppose that is human nature to some extent. I am wondering, though, how much of that is due to the influx of younger knitters (as another designer wisely pointed out there seems to be a cycle with many things when “young” or newer enthusiasts join something, and everything is new to them). We are at a point (or rather, they are at a point) where they are ready to move beyond garter stitch scarves in novelty yarn, and the desire for things that are fashionable and fresh drive marketing. The search for what is “new” and “relevant”, can be somewhat misleading. Old techniques are discovered and used in new ways when minds are open, rather than closed. Don’t get me wrong, everyone should be able to choose for themselves how simple they want their knitting to be. It is their knitting and they should be allowed to enjoy it without comment from anyone. But it works both ways. Human nature being what it is, we don’t always embrace diversity as we should.

There is a whole world of knitting out there, and we are only limited by our imagination and belief in ourselves. The desire to learn more and do more can be severely hammpered by our beleif in ourselves. Many knitters have started to search out other things in knitting beyond the garter stitch scarf in novelty yarn, and there is a return to more classic types of knitting. For the fashion conscious, this classic style is not without it’s own modern feel.

I for one am rejoicing, as I am a CAT (classic and timeless) type of designer. There is more interest in other types of knitting as a result of this swing back to basic yarns and classic styles, and there isless dependence on novelty yarns to make a project special.

I have a hard time designing with the novelty yarns myself. I think they are pretty, but I have trouble doing them justice. I think because I just never learned how to combine them or use them. This is because the kind of knitting that shows these yarns off bores me silly. In all honesty, I prefer classic yarns and classic types of knitting. The knitting itself is more challenging and is the star of the show, rather than the yarn itself being the one and only design element.

I enjoy an Aran jumper (pullover) or a fairisle jumper much more than a sweater that is knit out of novelty yarns. I can appreciate them, I just don’t use them myself.

It has been postulated that designers tend to fill niches, and I suppose in many respects that is right. I have not seen any effect in my own business related to the knitting industry (many are wondering if the bubble has burst, as there are now yarn stores closing and for awhile there, it seemed there were a lot of new ones opening). I would venture to say that is because the designs that I do never appealed to the knitters the market was courting. At the TNNA (The National Needlework Association) trade show, the market was definetly more balanced and not so heavily slated towards novelty yarns last year, and I would imagine this year will be the same.

I have always, to some extent, designed what I want and let the chips fall where they may. I think in many areas of life that is a good approach. Do what you believe is right, essentially. Or do what you believe in. I believe in designing garments I would love to wear. When it gets to the point where I am designing something to make a quick sale, that is not what I am into. Some people are and there is nothing wrong with that either. But if it isn’t right for me, then I should not pursue it.

Whatever my niche is, I am not entirely sure as I have not stopped to analyze it. I suppose I should. Janet Szabo is the queen of Aran knitting. Annie Modesitt is brilliantly creative. Bonne Marie Burns epitomizes elegant and trendy (IMHO). I just do what I like and see where it takes my fancy. And I try not to be afraid.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

April 25, 2008

How Do You Color Your World?

Filed under: Musings, The Design Process — jolenetreace @ 12:21 am

On one of the forums in Ravelry, there was an interesting discussion on color versus black and white photography for simple patterns for a beginning knitter’s class. As this is a topic on a forum for designers, it was interesting how the topic went in different directions.

From a marketing standpoint, at least in knitting and other crafty hobbies, color photography is seen as a higher quality. Interestingly, you are not always able to see the best detail with color photography. In the case of the thread that started the topic, they are simple patterns with (I have heard although have not seen) a very good quality black and white. One of the reasons they are given in black and white is to keep costs down for the beginner students so they don’t have to shell out so much.

Another interesting observation on the topic was how black and white photography (art photography) has value. Think Ansel Adams. Of course, we live in an instant gratification, more is more, huge is more, all the bells and whistles is more society. We do judge a book by its’ cover…or rather, color. Photography, that is. One thing that surely makes or breaks a pattern in that very small amount of time a consumer spends looking at things before picking it up and looking further. If the photography is not eye catching and well done, chances are the pattern will not be looked at.

For myself, I honestly cannot enjoy a sense of intimacy with a black and white art photo. I can appreciate it’s beauty, but I don’t want to live with it. It feels sterile and devoid of passion. Color greatly affects feeling, emotion, sense of well being. Color can make you feel energetic or languid. Color communicates, and we internalize what is communicated.

I am sure you all have seen some tone on tone rooms done in beige or off white. I know they can look sophisticated, but again it tends to not be my thing. Right now I am picking out carpeting and paint colors for my studio. I already have a sofa going into it that I am pulling colors from the upholstery, but deciding on a final color scheme has been somewhat tricky. I don’t want my studio of all places to be devoid of color, and so neutral it has a neutered feel.

The upholstery is a wonderful tapestry with ducks swimming in water, grasses and cattails, leafy trees, and some ducks flying. The ducks are mallards. There is an amazing variety of colors in this tapestry. The problem is if I have too much color on the walls and floor, the tapestry will not be a focal point. If I go with too neutral of a scheme, there won’t be enough punch in the room to look like anything but the home of someone who cannot commit, someone who doesn’t know color, or someone who enjoys an “artsy” or “sophisticated” no color kind of palette. I am none of those. I was on the Dean’s list when studying metal smithing, but I can say without hesitation that there are things about the world of fine art that are needlessly high brow.

I enjoy color. In my home, I want a peaceful environment while feeling energized. I want a welcoming environment, so I want it to feel warm. I also want it to feel like a creative space. I want it to feel like it has personality.

In the end, for the carpet, I picked out a light colored neutral for the carpet. The walls will be a yellow green (a color that is in abundance in the tapestry upholstery, as is the light colored neutral). The upholstery also has some mauve, royal blue, blue green, yellow, orange,rust, and other colors. I plan on picking up some of the mauve and purple colors in accents. This ended up being a good compromise between not enough color and too much color. There is enough of a chic feel with the yellow green on the walls to fill the artistic and creative needs (I thought some orchids would be a nice touch in that room too). There isn’t such a huge wow between the carpet and walls that nothing else gets noticed either. In designing the room, I had to decide what was going to be most important and make choices based on that. Not everything can be the “subject”. In design, some things have to more important, and other things have to recede and play a supportive role.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

April 22, 2008

Here we go for Round Two: More Knitting Needed

Filed under: Musings — jolenetreace @ 5:45 pm

Let me just say off the bat that this post today is just a wee bit whiny. Plain and simple, I am tired and I miss my husband. One of the bad things about him being gone is that I cannot show him the swatch that I just did and tell him what I want to do with it. We have been together long enough that he smiles and says “What does it want to be?”. Part of the fun of designing for me is showing him what I am coming up with.

Right now I am working on some baby projects going into an Interweave Press book. And that is fun, but it is more fun when I have someone to share it with. Don’t get me wrong, I get to see him on average twice a month so it could be worse. And I get to talk to him several times a day.

I actually was able to show him the swatch for the baby sweaters when it was done, as I was working on that when I went and visited him a few weeks ago. The baby sweaters have a little Intarsia on the chest, and a simple all over texture. Nice little details at the bands, too. I won’t go into more detail but when the book is out I will scan the swatch or post a picture of the sweaters (and the baby blanket).

I know there are many knitters out there who are knitting in a vacuum, and the Internet has been a boon for that. But there is nothing like getting together with other knitters (or someone who enjoys what you do) and spend some time together. I find it calms my mind. I had to go to the dentist today for some fillings, and took my knitting with me. I did actually get some knitting done, too, while I was there. I was actually pretty embarrassed that I had a few cavities. I haven’t had any in years, and I think I was just so sickly and feeling crummy over the past couple years that I didn’t brush as long. I had had bronchitis and pneumonia, and frequent chest colds after the accident I was in. My asthma kicks up and I wake up coughing. I relied on cough drops to go back to sleep, and often would put one in my mouth, between my cheek and teeth. I had three cavities on the side that I did that. I am going to make sure, when in similar situations, to make sure the cough drops are sugar free from now on.

I also knit during the sermon at church. I listen better with mindless knitting in hand.

While I have not posted pictures of the remodeling our house has gone through (which I hope to soon, as I have some really great pictures), I have been planning phase two, in between knitting for books and trying to get something new done for my own line of pattern leaflets. I am finally getting my studio done. Our current garage is getting converted to living space, and will be my studio. I will have a fireplace in the corner, and french doors on the front and back. I have so much yarn literally all over the house. The only room the house does not have yarn in (in some manner) is the bathrooms and laundry room.

There is a lot of planning involved. Just today, I have been looking at carpet samples and paint samples and making final choices.

And now I am ready to sit and knit. It is 5:30, and I am going to sit and work on the baby blanket for the Interweave book. It is repetitive, and a perfect antidote to an overloaded day.

I often wonder if knitting would not contribute greatly to stress reduction programs.  I think that is what we all need, more knitting.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

April 3, 2008

Knitterlogue: I have Googled, and Now it Is

Filed under: Musings — jolenetreace @ 4:51 pm

Travelogue: a travel documentary, a diary written during a journey, or a work of literature describing a journey.

Knitterlogue: a knitting documentary, in my case a knitting documentary of the design process, a diary of the design process. The story behind the knitting.

Yes, I did Google Knitterlogue, but nothing came up.

I don’t believe many of you know about a book project I have had on the back burners for some time. The idea is to have a book of designs that are inspired by animals at the zoo. None of the knitting looks like a particular animal in a representative way, rather the knitting has classic and yet up to date projects that have elements chosen as an abstraction of the inspiration. An Orangutan inspired design for example will not be the color of an Orangutan or have an Orangutan face on it. Rather, design elements are chosen for what I want to communicate about that animal. What stuck out in my mind, be it color, line of body, habit or habitat. Or what sparked in my imagination from thinking about the animal in question.

Traditional or classic types of techniques can still yield some very artful abstractions, without obviously being abstract art. For those of us who like designs that lean towards the classic (think Interweave Knits), that can be quite a revelation.

To be honest, there is a lot of abstract art that I don’t like because I don’t know how to relate to  it.  I don’t speak it’s language. I guess that is one of the reasons why I put the story out there. For those who want to design, reading about the process and the choices helps them think of their own choices and methods of expression.  All of my designs tell a story. I try and put that in each of the patterns, so the knitter has a sense of what my vision is and why I chose the things that I did to support the design. I think it makes for interesting reading, and when you are wearing it, it is like having a special little secret you are privy to that not everyone else knows.

I have showed that collection of swatches to a number of individuals in the business, and have been encouraged to pursue finding a publisher.  I did submit it to one publisher, but  it did not fit with what they felt their vision was at the time (and, my submission was inadvertantly returned to another designer, fortunately someone I knew who has scruples and would not “borrow” any of my designs…probably why I have been loathe to do anything with it since).

After having my work in Handknit Holidays, I was fortunate enough to talk with Melanie Falick at TNNA last summer (The National Needlearts Association trade show in Columbus OH). I talked with her about my ideas and she told me when I had it fleshed out more to let her know. I really need to get it in gear and talk to her about it. I don’t know whether or not it is a project she would want to take on or not, but it is one I love the idea of.

There are changes now in the market which lead me to think maybe the time is better now for this book, as there is a return to the types of designs that I like to do. And, there are now books that have that creative process as part of the book. Breaking into new territory or niche knitting in a successful book is not easy if you are not one of the better known designers.

Two books that caught my eye that are new include fine gauge knitting (Knit So Fine ), and design (Inspired to Knit). I was quite happy to see both publications, as I love talking about art, inspiration, and the design process, and I love fine gauge knitting. One of my distributors did not know I love fine gauge knitting, as so many of my designs are in worsted weight. What she did not know was that was because it suit the market.

I have all you sock knitters out there to thank for the wonderful array of fine gauge yarns that are coming out right now, as sock knitting is very popular. I personally don’t knit anything heavier than worsted weight. It just isn’t me.

Anyway, when I finally do a book, it will have a story as well. A story of many little stories, each one about the design process of something which sparked my imagination.

I dream about it, and it is a journey. They are all journeys, in their own way. With each design I pick different things to express what it is that has fired my imagination. But that is only the beginning of the story, or the start of the journey. I only deal with the first chapter, and it is up to each knitter to to take up the story in their own way.Peach and Knitting, JoLene Treace

February 9, 2008

Free Knitting Patterns: To Blog or Not to Blog

Filed under: Musings, The Business of Designing, Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 5:20 pm

I had a somewhat lengthy reply to a question from Ginger, regarding posting a link to a free blog. I did answer her question via email as well as beneath her comment on my blog, but I thought free knitting patterns related to copyrights might make an interesting topic.

Copyright itself can be difficult to understand. I was told at one time that you might think of it as a bundle of sticks, each stick would represent a “right”. There are any number of rights involved. First North American Serial Rights are typically the first publication of something in a North American magazine.

Over the years, publishers have expanded what they want beyond First North American Serial Rights to include the right to put something in an Anthology, the right to store it digitally, the right to distribute it digitally or in a collection, and on and on. I might add that compensation for the use of a design has not increased to cover the additional rights the publishers want.

It isn’t that I think the publishers of knitting magazines are being unfair per se, as I don’t know what expenses they have…I only know what mine are. I also know that they have to remain competitive in the publishing world or they go out of business.

The market has changed over the years. With the advent of the internet and what consumers expect, that bundle of sticks has grown. Both in the number of sticks in that bundle, and the number of sticks that publishers want when they pay a designer for the right to publish their work.

Publishers don’t want to be left in the dark in the advent of new and as yet undiscovered technologies, which can ultimately leave them behind in consumer expectations.

For example, there are now magazines that offer free downloads of some patterns. This would not be possible if the publishers had not secured digital rights to these patterns, or the right to distribute these patterns. They had to think ahead in terms of technology to have in place the means to satisfy the demands of the consumer, who can now cruise the internet and have immediate digital access to many many things. And it had to be in a way that was not too specific so that new technologies were not excluded!

There are designers who are not keen to see their patterns that were published in a magazine then offered as a free download. They don’t typically get compensated for that, although it depends on the legal wording on the contract. Contracts are often vaguely worded as it gives more wiggle room in the advent of - you guessed it - new technologies. It isn’t that publishers set out to stiff anyone. They too have a budget and they also need to meet the expectations of their consumers.

That said, how does this apply to the average knitter/blogger who likes to share free patterns? Some argue that since the pattern is free it is meant to be shared freely. While there is some truth to that, unless the pattern states clearly on it that anyone may distribute the pattern freely (as long as the pattern remains in its original state with the name of the designer clearly on the pattern) that may be one of those sticks in that copyright bundle that the designer has not given up. The right to distribute the work ultimately belongs to the creator of that work, and then it may or may not be sold or given away.

There are people out there who do patterns just because they love to do patterns and share them. When you are looking at the work of a professional designer, that free pattern represents many things. To the consumer it is a free pattern and the consumer is happy because they don’t have to pay for it. To the designer, it is something they put work into for a purpose. The purpose may be to draw traffic to their site, and to give their target consumer a chance to see what their product is like. It is a marketing tool.

In the end there is nothing wrong with that, nor is there anything wrong with not giving permission to distribute the pattern freely. It the designer put work into a design expressly to draw traffic to their site and to give a taste of what their product is like, it is their right to distribute it as they see fit.

Unfortunately, statistically, those in search of free patterns are not necessarily the ones who click through and buy…especially the ones who get the free patterns from websites that have collections of free patterns. The only way the designer benefits off of their work is if someone purchases a pattern or the design if it is work going to a publisher. Warm fuzzy feelings don’t pay the bills, and there are costs associated with designing.

So, lets say there is a free pattern you love and you would like to be able to put it on your site. One thing you can always do without permission is post a link to the pattern directly on the site from the designer. You can make the link open in a new window so that folks still have a foot in your door, so to speak.

Look at the pattern. What kind of information is there on the pattern besides the name of the designer? If there isn’t anything, you need to write and ask permission to post it on your blog. I would state upfront that the pattern will remain unaltered and with the name and copyright information of the designer on the pattern. Offer to link back to the web site or blog of the designer as well.

When you receive permission to post it on your blog, state clearly at the beginning (the end would not hurt either) the name and copyright of the design, as well as the name of the designer and that permission was given (along with the date) to post the pattern on your blog.

Many people are delighted to have free patterns they have done appear on other blogs, but others want those free patterns to stay on their website, where they can see what kind of statistics they get and where they can use it as a direct marketing tool.

As long as you have permission, you are good to go with a free pattern. You can link to your heart’s content without permission, as you are not distributing with a link.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace, PR Chair The Association of Knitwear Designers, Inc.

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