JoLene Treace Unraveled

July 7, 2008

Pretty Darn Funky: A Needlearts Tune

Filed under: Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 4:30 pm

I have been told by some that they really enjoy my blog, as the content is worth waiting for even though it is not all that frequent. Sometimes you just need a little levity though. I loved this bit when I followed this link from Ravelry, and it is a hoot.

It is a great, fun and funky tune that any knitter or crocheter is sure to love. I I don’t know the background on it. What can I say? You’ll have to click and listen.

Here is another one I like because I am a nurse. If you are not into ditties about colo-rectal surgeons, you might want to pass this one. Pun intended.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

July 6, 2008

The Dog Ate My Homework…er, Pattern: Send Me a New Copy Please!

Filed under: Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 11:22 am

The topic of customer service crops up from time to time on the lists for knitting designers, with stories of different kinds of requests and designers weighing in with different opinions on how to handle things.

The topic has cropped up again, and while I don’t remember the original request, it was something along the lines of someone lost their pattern or did something to the pattern, and they want the pattern replaced.

I have to be honest, this kind of bugs me, although I can see how we as a culture might come to expect this. As Erin (Hi Sweetie!) commented in a response to one of my posts, the mentality that the customer is always right is not, well, always right.

And there are some very kind hearted souls out there who will make a copy of a design from one of their books if someone emails them that their pattern is now ruined.

I think my biggest issue with that is that the folks who you really want to help are not likely to make that request, and folks who think nothing of taking advantage of someone’s generosity would boldly ask.

Not to mention, if the book is published through a publisher, they are asking the designer to violate the copyright of the publisher. We have the rights to our original work, which means that the original files - our wording, layout, charts, etc, are what we have rights to (depending on the rights sold to the publisher in the contract). We do not have the right to make copies from the book and send it to someone to replace something the dog ate. Why? Because what is covered under the copyright is not the design, it is what you see on the printed page. The layout, wording, charts, photography. Part of copyright law is the right to distribute. We as individual designers don’t have the right to distribute copies of a publisher’s work, anymore than knitters making a pdf and sharing with the world at large on the internet. When we make a copy from a book from a publisher, whether we are the original designer or not, we are reproducing and distributing without the right to do so.

Now, if the designer sent their original file to the person who lost their pattern, they would not be violating any copyright. The only bad part about it would be if there was a no compete clause or if they had sold all rights to their pattern. Ouch. They could get in some serious doo doo with their publisher.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

June 25, 2008

Are You Lookin At Me? Design Outside the Lines

Filed under: The Design Process, Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 1:59 pm

While I will be the first to admit when it comes to art, I really hate over used phrases like pushing the boundaries and outside the box, or pushing the envelope, I think this picture really illustrates what to me is good design that is beyond the box, or what is expected.

Good design does not imply being something people cannot relate to, but good design does look at not reaching for what is most expected but rather what makes the design stand out. Not for shock value, but what the design needs.

That is a hard concept to articulate.

Here is another picture I have taken that I am going to have in my studio. Why I love this picture: It is whimsical, and is not your typical “my, what a beautiful bird” pose one might see. It therefore has more personality. I caught the bird in a moment, you might say. Yes, it is a beautiful bird, and the picture shows that well, but it is not sterile. There is lots of personality showing here.

Sure, the bird isn’t moving, but you can tell it is thinking about it. Just the position of the legs, with the diagonal lines, gives a feeling of movement. Contained energy.

White Bird at Brookfield Zoo

I wasn’t all that close, as I have a really excellent zoom on my camera, so I don’t know if the bird was looking at me or something else. Whatever it was, I captured it and like it for the “differentness” of it. I love animals, and photographing them is fun when you can get a little of their personality in the photograph.

This is what I try to bring to my knitting designs as well. Every element is chosen because it suits the design, and every element tells a part of the story. If the design and the story behind the design need something that is as attention grabbing as a 300 member choir belting the Halleluja Chorus, then that is what it gets. If it needs something akin to a Japanese flute in the background of a water garden, that is what it gets. Thinking outside the box creatively demands looking at what you are trying to communicate and expressing that in ways that are both unexpected and fit the artwork in question.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

February 9, 2008

Free Knitting Patterns: To Blog or Not to Blog

Filed under: Musings, The Business of Designing, Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 5:20 pm

I had a somewhat lengthy reply to a question from Ginger, regarding posting a link to a free blog. I did answer her question via email as well as beneath her comment on my blog, but I thought free knitting patterns related to copyrights might make an interesting topic.

Copyright itself can be difficult to understand. I was told at one time that you might think of it as a bundle of sticks, each stick would represent a “right”. There are any number of rights involved. First North American Serial Rights are typically the first publication of something in a North American magazine.

Over the years, publishers have expanded what they want beyond First North American Serial Rights to include the right to put something in an Anthology, the right to store it digitally, the right to distribute it digitally or in a collection, and on and on. I might add that compensation for the use of a design has not increased to cover the additional rights the publishers want.

It isn’t that I think the publishers of knitting magazines are being unfair per se, as I don’t know what expenses they have…I only know what mine are. I also know that they have to remain competitive in the publishing world or they go out of business.

The market has changed over the years. With the advent of the internet and what consumers expect, that bundle of sticks has grown. Both in the number of sticks in that bundle, and the number of sticks that publishers want when they pay a designer for the right to publish their work.

Publishers don’t want to be left in the dark in the advent of new and as yet undiscovered technologies, which can ultimately leave them behind in consumer expectations.

For example, there are now magazines that offer free downloads of some patterns. This would not be possible if the publishers had not secured digital rights to these patterns, or the right to distribute these patterns. They had to think ahead in terms of technology to have in place the means to satisfy the demands of the consumer, who can now cruise the internet and have immediate digital access to many many things. And it had to be in a way that was not too specific so that new technologies were not excluded!

There are designers who are not keen to see their patterns that were published in a magazine then offered as a free download. They don’t typically get compensated for that, although it depends on the legal wording on the contract. Contracts are often vaguely worded as it gives more wiggle room in the advent of - you guessed it - new technologies. It isn’t that publishers set out to stiff anyone. They too have a budget and they also need to meet the expectations of their consumers.

That said, how does this apply to the average knitter/blogger who likes to share free patterns? Some argue that since the pattern is free it is meant to be shared freely. While there is some truth to that, unless the pattern states clearly on it that anyone may distribute the pattern freely (as long as the pattern remains in its original state with the name of the designer clearly on the pattern) that may be one of those sticks in that copyright bundle that the designer has not given up. The right to distribute the work ultimately belongs to the creator of that work, and then it may or may not be sold or given away.

There are people out there who do patterns just because they love to do patterns and share them. When you are looking at the work of a professional designer, that free pattern represents many things. To the consumer it is a free pattern and the consumer is happy because they don’t have to pay for it. To the designer, it is something they put work into for a purpose. The purpose may be to draw traffic to their site, and to give their target consumer a chance to see what their product is like. It is a marketing tool.

In the end there is nothing wrong with that, nor is there anything wrong with not giving permission to distribute the pattern freely. It the designer put work into a design expressly to draw traffic to their site and to give a taste of what their product is like, it is their right to distribute it as they see fit.

Unfortunately, statistically, those in search of free patterns are not necessarily the ones who click through and buy…especially the ones who get the free patterns from websites that have collections of free patterns. The only way the designer benefits off of their work is if someone purchases a pattern or the design if it is work going to a publisher. Warm fuzzy feelings don’t pay the bills, and there are costs associated with designing.

So, lets say there is a free pattern you love and you would like to be able to put it on your site. One thing you can always do without permission is post a link to the pattern directly on the site from the designer. You can make the link open in a new window so that folks still have a foot in your door, so to speak.

Look at the pattern. What kind of information is there on the pattern besides the name of the designer? If there isn’t anything, you need to write and ask permission to post it on your blog. I would state upfront that the pattern will remain unaltered and with the name and copyright information of the designer on the pattern. Offer to link back to the web site or blog of the designer as well.

When you receive permission to post it on your blog, state clearly at the beginning (the end would not hurt either) the name and copyright of the design, as well as the name of the designer and that permission was given (along with the date) to post the pattern on your blog.

Many people are delighted to have free patterns they have done appear on other blogs, but others want those free patterns to stay on their website, where they can see what kind of statistics they get and where they can use it as a direct marketing tool.

As long as you have permission, you are good to go with a free pattern. You can link to your heart’s content without permission, as you are not distributing with a link.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace, PR Chair The Association of Knitwear Designers, Inc.

January 25, 2008

When Good Monkeys Go Bad: New Uses for Stitch Markers

Filed under: Musings, Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 9:50 pm

This is a completely frivolous post. Those are sometimes the most fun. I suppose there is some hand knitting content, although if you are looking for new knitting patterns or techniques or cool local yarn stores you won’t find it in this post.

Bad MonkeyMy husband had a 4 day leave for the holiday (Happy Birthday to Martin Luther King, Jr., God rest his soul). We spent two of those days in Dayton, visiting my Stepdaughter Erin (Hi Sweetie!) and her husband Andy…and little Ian of course.

We went to the Dayton Knitting Guild, a very good knitting guild if you can get to it, and generally visited. When Andy was little his mom made him a sock monkey, so she made one for her Grandson as well.

Ian’s monkey developed a run in the crotch, and Erin and I were laughing about it while she was commenting that she was glad she knew how to fix it.

I mused that she could always make it anatomically correct, in not so many words. By the time we were done snickering, she had the run fixed and had a stitch marker that looks like a little safety pin at the bottom of the run. One thing led to another and we now have a bad monkey. Enjoy.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

December 9, 2007

Christmas is Coming, My Stash is Getting Phat

Filed under: Musings, Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 11:32 am

As many of you know already, I don’t knit gifts for Christmas. I know my limitations in getting gifts done in a timely manner. It just doesn’t get done.

What is on my needles at the moment are swatches. As usual. Not that I need to knit more of them. If I were to not knit another swatch for the next 10 years, I would still have plenty of designs rolling out. This is not an exaggeration. I know, I sat and counted them all and organized that stuff this week. I have over 60 that I want to work into designs. This does not include the “rejects”.

But you know, there would be no fun in that. I love the process of designing. And importantly, I love getting new yarn. I find the Yarn Harlot’s choice of name to be frankly inspired, and one many of us relate to on a visceral level.

Some of the newest things I am playing with right now are from The Unique Sheep. I found them on Ravelry, as they were looking for designs for their yarn. What I got from The Unique Sheep is Tinsel Toes, a superwash Merino and Tencel yarn that is a fingering weight. The color that I bought was Sangria, and it is a lovely handpaint. I love it because the color variations are subtle, and the kind of knitting I like to do shows up well in it. There are colorways with more contrast as well, but I tend to go for the subtle ones.

I already have a swatch done for a design that I want to do with it.

Also in the box with the Tinsel Toes is Sashimi, a sport weight Merino and Bamboo combination in Nature’s Gold; House Blend, a DK weight Alpaca, Merino, & Silk blend in Sinful; and Eos, a lace weight Tussah Silk & Merino Blend in Mermaid.

The same week, I received yarn from Trendsetter Yarns. The Association of Knitwear Designers (I am a professional member and also the PR Chair) joins with Trendsetter for an annual event at the TNNA trade shows every year. For those of you in retail who have gone to these and seen The Great Wall of Yarn, many of the swatches that were knit are from members of our organization.

Barry sends out a message and they coordinate yarns from different companies and send them out to the designers who have volunteered to knit swatches. I have only participated one other time, and this time when I replied that I would be able to do two, I also told them what kinds of yarns I do my best with.

I received two lovely lace weight yarns. Classic Elite has long been a favorite of mine, and they have a luscious lace weight Alpaca and Silk. I have that swatch almost done and will probably do another. Silky Alpaca Lace (the link shows it on Webs) is the name of the new yarn. I simply love it. I want more. Lots more. Now. Yesterday, even. I think it will be one of my favorites. It has a wonderful hand and drape and is a pleasure to knit with.

I will also be playing with some of the yarns here at some point, too, as soon as I get to talk to them more. I have made my list, and I’m checkin it twice.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

November 21, 2007

Cast-On, Bind-Off: Finer Finishes for Hand Knitting

Filed under: Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 12:15 pm

Ang posted a comment asking about sources for Cast-Ons when I commented on the Channel Island Cast-On.

I commented on how I like that Cast-On (it is admittedly a favorite). It forms a row of nice fat little purls (not as in knitting, but as in Oysters) along the edge of the knitting. Now, they are not fat compared to the stitches, as they are only as fat as the yarn allows them to be (so the finer the gauge the smaller they are).

When working this cast-on, there are similarities to the long tail cast-on. I had my friend Katherine Misegades take photos of my hands when working this Cast-On, and even though I stay away from re-inventing the wheel, I think I can add something to some of the directions I have seen for it. I just need to get the photos and comments together…a good project for after Thanksgiving.

I have a number of books that have copious information on different cast-ons and what they are used for. The Principles of Knitting, by June Hemmons Hiatt (out of print and outrageously expensive), Knitter’s Handbook by Montse Stanley is exceptional, and Big Book of Knitting by Katharina Buss. The Big Book of Knitting has really good information on how to make your knitting look exceptional from the techniques that you use.

The plainer your knitting is (for example a Worsted or DK smooth plied yarn in a solid color, in stockinette) the more important these details become. Why? Because there isn’t much else for the eye to see. Those details become the main design elements. Since there isn’t contrast with anything else, that is what the eye is drawn to. The difference between a generic looking sock and one that looks downright couture.

If you type Channel Island Cast-On in Google, you will see some online references for it. Mine isn’t done yet.

I think I may have to do a little tutorial with some “regular” cast-ons as well, against stockinette, garter, purl (reverse stockinette), and ribbing, just so you can see the difference. Some of the regular cast-ons that we do have different appearances on the “right side” or “wrong side” (the first or second row after the cast-on). You may find for certain applications that you like the first row after the cast-on to be your right side or vice versa.

It is a liberating experience as you have control over exactly how your knitting looks.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

November 19, 2007

All I Want is Yarn

Filed under: Musings, The Design Process, Yarn Talk — jolenetreace @ 4:04 am

I mentioned several days ago I would write about some yarns I picked up at Stitches & Scones in Westfield Indiana. Whenever I am in Indianapolis, I make a point of going to this yarn store.

I was in search of yarns for a call for submissions from Interweave Knits for a book they have in the works. Sure, I have like a million odd balls of yarns of all kinds in my “yarn room” upstairs (it isn’t big enough to qualify as a studio, though hopefully I will have one of those by this time next year). To be honest, I wanted to play with something new. Something fresh. maybe something I really liked that I forgot about. Maybe something that I had tried but didn’t have enough of to swatch with.

I emailed Molly to ask about a few that I was looking for specifically, and when I left the store I had the following:

Savoy, a yummy silk and merino blend (in a lovely chocolate brown color and white), Wool Bamboo (two balls), Indulgence, Silke Tweed (two balls), Blue Sky Alpaca & Silk (two skeins), Linen Isle, and Princess (two balls).

Also purchased, but not at Stitches & Scones, Misti Alpaca DK 4 Ply (80% Baby Suri Alpaca and 20% silk), Classic Alpaca, Korella (a linen and acrylic blend form Gedifra), Sirdar’s Baby Bamboo, and Svale from Dale of Norway.

I don’t know if any of you remember the Bugs Bunny cartoons? I am thinking specifically of Daffy Duck when he would get in a cave with hidden treasure, and he would gleefully say “I am a happy miser!!!” I suspect that is what I looked like when I was sitting in the middle of the hotel room, trying to decide what I wanted to play with first.

Seriously though, yarn is an important design element. I know that is somewhat of a “duh” statement, but I think we can at times forget that. Not every yarn is suited to every purpose.

One of the interesting discussions going on in Ravelry is about what knitting rule you are rebelling against. It is fascinating to see what makes us all tick. Some of us have a need to rebel. For whatever reason. Maybe we don’t like being told that a particular way is the right way or the best way (regardless of whether it is or not). Maybe we have this picture in our minds about ourselves and we are exciting, chic, independent, or whatever adjective you want to insert if we are “rebellious”.

For myself I have never felt the need to rebel. Perhaps it is because I do what I feel is best for the design. I am a self taught knitter so I don’t have any preconceived ideas or influences that prod me to say so there and metaphorically shove my knitting needle in its eye. That would explain why I am particular about my knitting. As I am self taught, I have had no benefit of a teacher to help me learn what “the right way is”. I have had to figure it out on my own.

There are certain rules I have learned from reading, that I follow as it makes for better knitting. There are times where I break with tradition. Not because I need to rebel but because, again, it makes the design stronger or makes my knitting better.

For example, I love the Channel Island Cast On. Who says you cannot use it on other things besides Ganseys? Using it in other applications is more creative than anything.

I will be happily finishing up my swatching for the call for submissions tomorrow. I have a little something that I want to knit up with the Korella, and I just may use the Channel Island Cast On, paired with a lacey stitch pattern. At least one with enough yarn overs to give it a lacey feel, even though at that gauge and with the amount of yarn overs that form the pattern I don’t think there is enough to truely classify it as lace.

There just are not enough hours in the day. Thanksgiving may just have to wait this year.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

November 17, 2007

Interweave Knits Winter 2006 Issue: Sells Out Soon!

Filed under: Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 11:53 am

If any of you are thinking of getting this issue, you may want to get one soon. I spoke with Jade Sapphire Exotics, and there are less than 30 issues left.

The Wine and Roses Mitts that I had in the Winter 2006 issue were out of their yarn, and I had called to ask about obtaining a color card of their Lacey Lamb, a luscious lace yarn that knits and blocks like a dream.

I will be putting this pattern in a leaflet at the earliest opportunity. Probably when the magazine sells out, as there is nothing stipulated in my contract with Interweave regarding when I can do so (I retained the rights to do so however, so that is not the issue).

It isn’t a good idea to put out a pattern too soon to when it came out in a magazine though. And while I retain the rights to my designs in Handknit Holidays I would not be putting the patterns in a pattern leaflet at this time for the same reason. The book is still in print.

Still, with the Mitts it will be soon.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

November 16, 2007

Now on Flickr

Filed under: Uncategorized — jolenetreace @ 10:44 pm

While waiting for my name to be linked to my user name on Ravelry, I went to flicr and uploaded pictures of my pattern leaflets.

Not on flickr yet: Lilly, Fei, Willow (scrolldown a bit, second from top), Hamefarin, Little Leaf Lace Shawl (scroll down on page to see), Keefley Mittens, River Forest Gansey, Evergreen Shawl (in Handknit Holidays), Wine and Roses Mitts, Forest Park Dresser Scarf (which just came out in 101 Designer One Skein Wonders), and BonBons.

I still haven’t made a list yet of all the wonderful yarn I bought in Indianapolis at Stitches and Scones (Congrats on the Indy A-list Molly!). I’ll have to see if I can do that tomorrow.

Peace and Knitting, JoLene Treace

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